The Floating City, The City Of Canals or Maybe The City of Bridges!

Dawn over Grand Canal, Venice from the Accademia Bridge (~0600)

Venice is a city that was built on a wing and a prayer, yet has survived for over 1500 years.  The floating city consists of over 100 small islands connected by canals and bridges; whose buildings were built upon wooden platforms supported by wooden stakes driven into the ground. The secret to the longevity of Venice’s wooden foundation is the fact that they are submerged underwater and through a process known as mineralization has become hard as rock. Therefore the Venetians were able to build solid structures on them and is the reason Venice still stands today.  

Venice it's undoubtedly a city like no other with most of its buildings dating to the 13th and 18th centuries. Everything looks so picturesque, the old buildings with the red tile roofs, the turquoise water, the gondolas and the beautiful shops. It is a photographer’s dream, hence is why we chose a photographer to be our tour guide. Photo walks are perfect if you want to discover hidden and non-touristy parts of a place.  Venice was perfect for a photo walk as it’s full of unique facades, hidden alleys, a surprise round every corner and of course, the famous Venice canals. 

Grand Canal

The Grand Canal is the Venice's main artery, a 3 km, s-shaped curve of water jam packed with private boats, vaporetto and barges. Actually the Grand Canal is believed to be a branch of the ancient Brenta River that opens into the lagoon. The canals coupled with its  400+ bridges are the blood line of Venice and everyone needs to travel on them. They are the transit system of Venice used by water buses, taxis, police, postal service and delivery companies, to name a few.   

Venice is beautiful but it can be crowded with a lot of tourists especially when the cruise ship excursions are underway.  Also, it can be confusing with its narrow streets and alleys so map apps quite often help get you lost. Getting lost in Venice is probably the best thing one can do and it’s a city that is best explored at a leisurely pace, along with a good pair of walking shoes.  Having read that Venice smells I had prepared myself for just that occurrence. I can happily state that for my visit in August, there was little to no odoriferous smells at all.  

Now to be honest Venice wasn't top on my list of places to visit but when planning our 25th anniversary celebration,Venice sorta fell into the start and end of 2 fantastic weeks.  Our Venetian escape started with a water taxi ride to our hotel that is housed in a restored flour mill on the Island of Giudecca (the Hilton Molino Stucky). I think I emulated a bobble head on the ride over trying to catch glimpses of everything we passed on the taxi route. 

Ultimately the floating city, city of canals, city of bridges or whatever you chose to call it, did not disappoint to impress.  This quote describes Venice to a "t": ‘Venice is a city that has the sea for its floors, the sky for its roof and the flow of water for its walls.’ – Unknown.

Piazza San Marco

Piazza San Marco, the fabled centre of Venice and during certain times of the year and certain hours of the day; the world's epicentre of tourist madness.  My advise is to visit the piazza whenever nobody else would;  off-season and/or very early in the morning.  We visited it early in the morning on our photo walk tour (~0630) and later in the morning (~0930ish) before the really large crowds arrived. Amazing what a difference several hours can make. 

Piazza San Marco at dawn (~0630).  
Peaceful and quiet.

Piazza San Marco around 0900.  The madness begins.

Running along the north side of the Piazza San Macro is a long arcade of buildings built in the early 16th century (1514-1538) called the Procuratie Vecchie.  These were the homes and offices of high state officials during the Republic of Venice. Today, the first floor arcades house shops, cafes, restaurants and modern stores including the famous Caffè Quadri. Upper floors house offices.

Corridor of Procuratie Vecchie in Piazza San Marco
before shops open and the crowds arrive.

Personally I believe the best views of Piazza San Marco are from San Giorgio Maggiore Island and the Campanile di San Giorgio. Actually it's one of the better views you'll get of Venice and for 6 euro per person you can take a lift up to the top of the tower with no lines and few visitors. 

View of St. Mark's Campanile and Doges Palace (Venetian Gothic style 1340 with modifications and restorations over the centuries.  
Photo taken from San Giorgio Maggiore Island

Mosaics on the western façade of St. Mark's Basilica (c. 1660)
The arrival of the body of Saint Mark in Venice

The Horses of St. Marks have been around for centuries, although their origins are much debated. The four horses were sent to Venice from Constantinople; following the sacking of Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade in 1204 by Doge Enrico Dandolo, leader of the Venetian Crusaders.  They were again looted by Napoleon when in 1797. The horses, with a chariot formed a victory quadriga, that was placed on top of the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel.  Their stay in Paris was short-lived as they were returned to the Austrian Empire after Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo. The Austrians who had annexed Venice in turn returned the horses to Venice in 1815. They were temporarily removed for safe keeping during world war I and II to Palazzo Venezia, Rome and Praglia Abbey, a Benedictine monastery in Teolo; respectively.  

Replicas of two of the four Horses of Saint Mark-Lysippos
Originals are housed in St Mark's Museum inside the basilica 

Torre dell’Orologio in Piazzo San Macro

Bell atop Torre dell’Orologio (1497)

Torre dell’Orologio, also known as St. Mark’s Clock Tower or the Moor’s Clocktower, faces into Piazza San Marco was commissioned by doge Agostino Barbargio in 1493 and completed in 1499. The clock tower is topped by two bronze figures that have developed a dark patina over time and strike the bell hourly. The bell is original and is signed by Simeone Campanato, who cast it at the Arsenal in 1497. 

Venice as justice relief on Loggetta del Sansovino (1538-46; rebuilt 1902-12)

The Loggetta, designed by Jacopo Sansovino, is located at the base of the campanile in  Piazza San Marco.  In 1902 the Loggetta was destroyed by the collapse of the campanile and where possible the original materials were utilized in the reconstruction. Though badly damaged, the reliefs in the attic are original. The central relief depicts Venice as Justice with the sword and scales. She sits upon a throne supported by lions and is flanked by river gods with water flowing from urns. 

Bridge of Sighs

La Ponte dei Sospiri as it is called in Italian was crafted in 1600 by Antonio Contin. The structure is an enclosed limestone bridge in the baroque style and remains the only covered bridge in Venice. Located next to the Doge’s Palace, it spans the Rio Di Palazzo (Palace River). Its original purpose was to connect the Old Prison and the Doge Palace interrogation rooms, with the New Prison directly across the river. Legend has it that the bridge was given its name because it offered condemned prisoners their last view of beautiful Venice before being executed.  Reality it was coined from the poetic musings of Lord Byron in the 19th century. 

One of the most commonly seen views of the Bridge of Sighs
from The Ponte della Paglia.

My favourite view of the Bridge of Sighs from the The Ponte della Paglia.

Bridge of Sighs from the quiet side or the Ponte della Canonica.
(In reality we probably got lost going somewhere)

Trying to cover Venice in one blog post is impossible and not practical. So besides a quick introduction this post focused on Piazza San Macro and the nearby Bridge of Sighs, essentially the heart of Venice.

Other Blogs in the Venice Series.  

https://sandrawhiteway.blogspot.com/2022/04/the-lions-of-venice.html

https://sandrawhiteway.blogspot.com/2022/05/boats-of-venice.html

https://sandrawhiteway.blogspot.com/2022/05/venices-reference-points-churches-and.html

More Information about Venice.

https://www.glassofvenice.com/blog/category/venice/

Loppem Castle: A Flemish Neo-Gothic Masterpiece with a Hint of Political Intrigue

Kasteel van Loopem

Loppem Castle (Kasteel van Loppem) located just east of the town of Loppem, was built between 1858 and 1862 by Baron Charles van Caloen replacing an earlier 18th-century mansion. Architects Edward Welby Pugin and Jean-Baptiste de Béthune designed it with the latter giving it, its Flemish Gothic Revival appearance. The castle’s architecture, interior decoration, and furnishings were designed in the Flemish Neo-Gothic style and have been maintained in this style. This is unique as many Belgian castles (and honestly many castles worldwide) are often a mix of styles having been renovated by various architects and designers over the centuries. 

The next couple of paragraphs are my Coles Notes version of Castle Loppem's place in Belgium history. I would hazard a guess that no castle is a stranger to political intrigue including Loppem Castle. In 1830, as a result of the Belgian Revolution, the area known as the United Kingdom of Netherlands was split up into three countries: The Netherlands, Belgium, and Luxembourg.  A minor prince from the German House of Saxe-Coburg (boy did those Saxe-Coburg lads get around) was made King of Belgium in what was theoretically a constitutional monarchy. In reality, it was the king and a few oligarchs making all the rules. 

Welcome to Castle Loppem!

Fast forward to 1918, Loppem Castle had become the temporary home of King Albert I (October 24 - November 21).  The king would have been considered by most standards a liberal. That coupled with the political climate of the day suggesting change was essential to maintain the peace and unity of the country; King Albert met with a group of socialist and liberal politicians at Castle Loppem.  The result was the formation of a new government, numerous social reforms including trade union rights, and universal suffrage granted to men thereby breaking the hold of the oligarchy. This marked the beginning of modern Belgium. Of course, the oligarchs were a bit miffed. They noted that the procedures of the constitution had not been followed voicing complaints about what would become known as the “Loppem Coup”.  

The interiors and furnishings were designed to complement and enhance the castle's architecture. The furnishings were designed by Pugin with the stained glass, chandeliers, staircases and fireplaces designed by Bethune. All were executed with amazing skill by local craftsmen.  The interior touches contribute to the castle's authenticity and originality that reflects its design heritage while offering a glimpse into its past. 

I would like to thank the staff of Loppem Castle and the Jean van Caloen foundation for gracefully answering all my questions. The quick and detailed responses were very much appreciated  (http://www.kasteelvanloppem.be/en).

Stained Glass Windows 

Stain glass designed by Jean-Baptiste de Béthune and executed by locale artisans 1858-1862. 

Small Family Chapel Stain Glass

Staircases

The banister in the hall of the castle has 100 panels and each panel has a different design. The staircase was designed by Jean-Baptiste de Béthune and executed by locale artisans 1858-1862. 

Bannister Panels with Hunting Theme

Bannister Panel

Lion Newel Post Cap
(Lions are part of the van Caloen Coat of Arms)

Castle Interiors

Furniture by Pugin. Windows, chandeliers and fireplace by Bethune. Ca. 1860. 

Mural painting by Augustin Martin (1870)
Captions by the Flemish poet Guido Gezelle

Mural painting by Augustin Martin (1870)
Captions by the Flemish poet Guido Gezelle

Hooghuys and Sons Organ in Blue Room

Ceilings

Fireplace Mantle 

Works of Art

Pieta 1460
after Vrancke van der Stockt

Madonna and Child
Holland 15th-century

Mary
France or Maasland Netherlands 14th-century.

Portuguese Ivory
17th-Century

Male Saint 
France 13th-century

Saint Sebastian
Jan Borman Ca. 1520

Saint Margaret, crushing a devil or dragon under her feet
France (14th century)
 sculpted in natural stone, polychromed

The above figurine is based on a hagiography in the Legenda Aurea (compiled around the years 1259–1266) by Jacobus a Voragine; detailing the legend of Saint Margaret of Antioch (3rd century).  She was a Christian martyr who resisted a devil and pressed him to the ground with her right foot.

Virgin Mary with a book, a devil under her feet,
France (early 14th century)
 sculpted in natural stone, polychromed

Devi (goddess represents the universal Mother and the feminine element) 
sandstone from Chandella period 10th-11th century
 Madhya Pradesh, India,

Swooning of Mary
Antwerp Early 16th-century

The Bruges Burg Square
Anonymous, 17th century, oil on canvas

Saint Jerome in the desert, After P.P. Rubens
probably 17th century, oil on canvas

The above painting is an old copy (smaller format) of the Saint Jerome of Peter Paul Rubens (ca. 1612-’15), kept in the Dresden Gemäldegalerie. Rubens portrayed the episode of Saint Jerome’s life as told in the epistle of Saint Eusebius and as popularised by the 13th century, Legenda Aurea. St. Jerome spent several years meditating in the Syrian desert. The traditional attributes of Jerome are portrayed; the skull symbolizing mortification, his books, and the lion whom he befriended by pulling a thorn from its paw. 

The pose of the semi-naked, muscular male figure was inspired by a representation of St. Jerome by Titian, which Rubens had seen in Venice, and also by a statue known as the Dying Seneca (2nd century) in the Louvre, Paris. 

Jean van Caloen, a grandson of Charles van Caloen, bought this well-crafted copy in 1913 from a Bruges antique dealer. Before that, the painting was in the possession of the family Depuydt in Poperinge.

Time for a Nap, 17th century, oil on canvas
Gillis van Tilborgh (1625-1678), 

Gillis van Tilborgh (1625-1678), specialized in group portraits, paintings on the life of the lower class and elegant genre paintings. This painting has the monogram 'TB f(ecit)' which is how van Tilborgh signed his paintings. This painting is part of the van Ockerhout family legacy and was acquired as a result of the marriage of Albert van Caloen to Marie van Ockerhout. 

Saint Jerome (ca 1550)
copy of a painting by Joos van Cleve (ca 1485-1540) oil on canvas

Catharina Peussin
(Wife of Pieter Cassetta, alderman of the western district of the Franc of Bruges)
 2nd quarter of the 17th century, oil on canvas

Portrait of Charles van Caloen
 by Jean-Baptiste Anthony, autumn 1880, oil on panel

This portrait is of 65-year-old Baron Charles van Caloen (1815-1896) in his senatorial costume. Charles van Caloen was a senator for the catholic party from 1867 until 1878. He commissioned the construction of the Loppem Castle, which is shown in the background. Anthony also painted a similar portrait of Charles's wife Savina de Gourcy Serainchamps. 

Portrait of Joseph van Caloen
by Flori Van Acker, 1922, oil on canvas

Joseph van Caloen (1853-1932) was the oldest son of Charles van Caloen and Savina de Gourcy. In 1872 he entered the order of the Benedictines as 'dom Gérard'. He dedicated his life to missionary work. In 1893, the Pope charged him with the task of restoring the Benedictine order in Brazil. In 1906, he was appointed bishop in the mission area of the Rio Branco. In 1908 he became arch abbot of the Brazilian congregation. This portrait was painted by the well-known Bruges painter Florimond Van Acker (1858-1940), director of the Bruges art academy, a gifted painter of cityscapes, landscapes, genre scenes and portraits of notables and also an original designer of posters.

The Lamentation of Christ
Antwerp Mannerism early 16th- century

Antwerp Mannerism refers to an unidentified group of painters working primarily in Antwerp (but also in other Flemish cities) circa 1520 whose works bear certain characteristic features. Although attempts have been made to identify the individuals responsible for the several stylistic groups, most of the paintings remain attributed to anonymous masters. Characteristic of Antwerp Mannerism are works attributed to Jan de Beer, Jan van Dornicke, certain early paintings of Jan Gossart (1532) and Adriaen Ysenbrandt (1551).  https://www.britannica.com/topic/Antwerp-Mannerists

A view of the castle grounds.
For my fisher friends.

The City founded by Legends - Trapani

Piazza Mercato del Pesce

Legend has it that Trapani was founded on a piece of land that arose as a result of Demeter's Scythe falling off her chariot as she desperately search for her missing daughter Persephone. The alternate myth features Saturn, who eviscerated his father Uranus, god of the sky, with a sickle which, falling into the sea, created the city. Alas reality is so much more mundane as Trapani was founded by the Elymians, who used it as an agricultural centre for their hilltop fortress town of Erice. Trapani was transformed into an important port by the Phoenicians, whom scored a famous naval victory over the Romans here.  Ultimately the port became even more important for tuna fishing and salt production.

Tourism has grown in recent years due to the city's proximity to popular destinations such as Erice, Segesta, and the Egadi Islands. Today, Trapani is still an active port exporting salt and wine (Marsala wine which is a Sicilian fortified wine has long been a stable in my wine cabinet for cooking), and its industrial activities include tuna fishing and canning, marble working, and food processing.  

What a beautiful entrance to a Bed and Breakfast
B&B Il Vecchio Messina 

Chiesa del Collegio dei Gesuiti (Church of the Jesuit College)
Baroque Style started in 1614, consecrated in 1705.

Always Look up..
Church of the Jesuit College

More details on the Church of the Jesuit College

Palazzo Cavarretta 1672
Trapani’s City Hall

Madonna of Trapani  (Giuseppe Nolf 1700)
Statue on Palazzo Cavarretta 1672 

Saint Albert of Trapani (1240-1307)
 (Giuseppe Nolf 1700)
Statue on Palazzo Cavarretta 1672 

Saint John the Baptist (Giuseppe Nolf 1700)
Statue on Palazzo Cavarretta 1672 

This gem that is easily missed unless you look up and is known as the Dark Door (not in photo)  and Clock Tower (Porta Oscura e Torre Dell'orologio).  With the Dark Door below the Clock Tower, built around the fourteenth century, this city gate marks the boundary between the original fortified city and the expansion to the west during the Aragonese period. The astronomical clock was designed and built by the Trapani master Giuseppe Mennella in 1596.  The marble used was extracted from the Rizzuto quarry in Valderice.  The two clocks are the Sun Dial and Dial of the Moon.  Details on the two clocks can be found at:  https://www.itregolfi.com/cosa-vedere/trapani/torre-oscura-e-orologio-astronomico.

Torre Dell'orologio (Clock Tower) 1596?

Street in Trapani.

Casa del Mutilato 1937
National Association of War Invalids and Maimed building

Cathedral San Lorenzo (Basilica of St. Lawrence the Martyr)
Originally Built in 1421 with numerous renovations;  the last in the 1800's.
The bronze gates by sculptor Ennio Tesei replaced wooden ones in 1990. 

Cathedral San Lorenzo (Basilica of St. Lawrence the Martyr)
These bronze gates by sculptor Ennio Tesei replaced wooden ones in 1990

Cathedral San Lorenzo
A baroque styled cathedral decorated in neoclassical plasterwork and frescoed vaults.  

 Princess Iolanda (Iolanda Margherita di Savoia)
 daughter of the king of Italy Vittorio Emanuele III
Piazza Principessa Jolanda

Former Sant'Agostino Church (Former Chapel of the Templars 1101)
Today it is used as an auditorium

Fresh Seafood Anyone!
Seafood Market Trapani

Fountain of Saturn 1342
The fountain and aqueduct was built in 1342 to supply water from Mount Erice.
In the 18th century a Baroque style statue of Saturn, mythical founder of Trapani, was added to beautify it.

Trapani Salt Pans. 

The following websites provide more information on Trapani, Sicily:

https://www.italythisway.com/places/articles/trapani-history.php

http://www.turismo.trapani.it/en/home.html

http://www.turismo.trapani.it/it/home.html