A Slice of Siracusa with a Side of Noto

If a 2,700 year-old city that is the birthplace of the mathematician and engineer Archimedes strikes your fancy, then Siracusa (Syracuse), Sicily is a place worthy of a visit. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was founded by Greeks around 734 BC, has a rich Greek and Roman history and an amazing Greek Amphitheatre. The main attractions of Siracusa tend to be concentrated around two areas: Neapolis (Greek for New City) Archaeological Park and the Island of Ortigia. Both areas are easily explored on foot and worth a visit. Now honestly you cannot see and experience all that Siracusa offers in a day. We tried, failed, and added a quick stop in Noto just for the hell of it.

Greek Amphitheatre

The Neapolis Archaeological Park, situated in the northwest of Siracusa is home to several well-preserved Greek and Roman ruins, the jewel of which is the ancient Greek Theatre. The Neapolis is considered one of the most important archaeological and historical sites in the Mediterranean and includes the Greek Amphitheatre, the Sanctuary of Apollo Temenite, the Altar of Hieron II, the Roman amphitheatre, and the Latomie. 

The Greek Amphitheatre is situated on the southern slopes of Temenite Hill, originally built in the 5th century BC. It was rebuilt in the 3rd century BC and renovated during the roman period becoming one of the largest theatres of the Greek world with seating for 15,000 spectators. It ultimately fell into decline during the Middle Ages until it was rediscovered by modern archaeologists. Today, much of the originally semi-circular seating survives in fantastic condition, although it is often covered with wood to preserve its condition.  The INDA Foundation holds performances of Greek classics in an annual festival held there from May to June.

Latomie del Paradiso

Near the Greek Amphitheatre is the Latomie del Paradiso, an ancient quarry from the 6th century B.C featuring numerous caverns, fissures & cliffs. While today the Latomie (Ancient Greek for a quarry used as a prison) is a beautiful place, it was the original "hell on earth" for many as it was a place of detention and forced labour for prisoners of war and political prisoners. The 7000 survivors of the war between Syracuse and Athens in 413 BC were imprisoned here. It was out of this deep limestone quarry that stone for the ancient city was extracted, often by its prisoners.

Orecchio di Dionisio (Ear of Dionysius) is the ear-shaped artificial grotto dug out as a rock quarry and possibly later used as a sounding board for theatrical performances. The name of the cave was coined in 1608 by the painter Michelangelo da Caravaggio. Due to the particular shape of this grotto, legend has it that the town’s wicked and paranoid tyrant Dionysius used it to overhear his prisoners’ conversations from the top of the mine and then punish those who plotted against him.  

Exterior and Interior View of the Ear of Dionysius Grotto. 

The Paolo Orsi Regional Archaeological Museum of Syracuse was built in the park of Villa Landolina and opened in 1988. The museum is located approximately 300 metres from the Neapolis Archaeological Park. This uncrowded wonder displays 18,000 archaeological finds from the city of Syracuse and the eastern regions of the island. Our group of three had this wonderful small museum essentially to ourselves. it is worth a visit and can be seen in its entirety in several hours.  A separate blog will focus on this gem of a museum.  

“Paolo Orsi” Regional Archaeological Museum of Syracuse (photo credit Zde) 

The Fountain of Diana in Piazza di Archimede  

Throughout its history, Siracusa and the adjacent Island of Ortigia (which is the historical centre of Siracusa) has been part of several cultures; Arabs, Roman, Normans, Byzantines, Spaniards, and others. Ortigia was the site of an ancient Greek settlement founded by the Corinthians in 734 B.C. This over 2,700 year old city still bears witness to the art and culture that have flourished in it throughout the centuries. Ortigia derives its name from the ancient Greek ortyx meaning Quail. The island is fairly small (about 1km long and 600 meters wide) so the best way to see Ortigia is just to wander around. The main attractions in Ortigia are Ortygia market, Piazza Duomo, Maniace Castle and Eurialo Castle, Temple of Apollo, Fonte Aretusa, Piazza Archimede, and the Cathedral of Santa Maria delle Colonne.  

Piazza di Archimede was built in 1878 to honour the famous mathematician Archimedes, who was killed by the Romans in 212 B.C.. At the centre of the Piazza is the beautiful Fountain of Diana, the Roman goddess built in 1907 by the sculptor Giulio Moschetti.  The nymph Arethusa is depicted in the act of escaping from Alpheus who, with outstretched arms, tries to grab her. Diana, at the centre of the group, protects the young girl.

Noto is a city 32 kilometres (20 mi) southwest of the city of Siracusa at the foot of the Iblean Mountains. The medieval town of Noto was razed by an earthquake in 1693.  Noto was rebuilt at its present site and as a result has a unique architectural homogeneity, built over the next decades in a typical and highly preserved example of Sicilian baroque. Most of Noto’s notable buildings were constructed in the 18th century. The facade of some buildings in Noto was built with a tufa stone (a variety of limestone) of sandy colour which acquires a golden tone at times.

Noto Cathedral (1776)

Palazzio Ducezio (Noto's Town Hall)
Designed in 1746, completed in 1830 and second floor added in the 1950s. 

More Photos from Siracusa and Noto. 

The Altar of Hiero II

Monumental grand altar in the ancient quarter of Neapolis built by Hiero II for public sacrifices. It was built in the Hellenistic period between 241 and 215 BCE and is believed to have been dedicated to Zeus Eleutherios. 

The Roman Amphitheatre from the early Imperial period (3rd century BC), that was used for gladiator fights.

The Grotta del Ninfeo

An cave carved into the rock of Temenite hill, at Neapolis Archaeological Park. At the entrance they were statues dedicated to Muses. The fountain is inspired by Greek cult of the nymphs from which the cave derived its name.

Terrace of Temenite Hill and entrance to Sepulchral Street, with rock tombs, niches and epitaphs on each side.

The Cathedral of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Cathedral of Siracusa)

The cathedral in Siracusa was built in the 6th century by the Byzantines who converted the remains of the Temple of Athena (480 BC) into a church. The Temple had been a Doric temple whose columns and other remains were incorporated into the current church (see photo below). The facade of the Cathedral is a Sicilian-Baroque composition erected in 1728-54 after an earthquake in 1693 destroyed the Norman facade and bell tower (circa 12th century).  The exterior statues were sculptured by Ignazio Marabitti (1757).

 

Exterior wall of the Cathedral of Siracusa with columns from the Temple of Athena

Saint Peter at Siracusa Cathedral (1757 Ignazio Marabotti)

Santa Lucia alla Badia Church  (1696-1703)
Houses The Burial of Saint Lucia painted in 1608 by Caravaggio

Look Up, Way Up.
The Sicilian Spiderman by Domenico Pellegrino as part of MOA Exhibition

Church of Saint Francis Immaculate in Noto (1704-1775)

Via Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour in Noto

Sicilian Busker in Noto

The following websites and links in the blog provide additional information:

https://www.secretsiracusa.it/en/where-to-go/

https://www.visitsicily.info/en/10cosea/siracusa/

https://www.selectsicilyvillas.com/places-in-sicily/syracuse/

http://www.bestofsicily.com/siracusa.htm

http://www.bestofsicily.com/noto.htm

https://www.visitsicily.info/en/noto-the-sicilian-baroque/

Venice of the North, Bruges

Provincial Hof
(Original Provincial Seat of West Flander Government) 

Described as "Venice of the North" Brugge (dutch spelling and has numerous alternate spellings depending upon language, origin and period i.e. Bruges, Brugge, Brugges), the capital of West Flanders (Flemish Region) in Northwest Belgium is easily one of Europe's most beautiful cities. Let me be clear Brugge is not a Venice replica, both are unique and worthy of your time and a visit. My first visit to Brugge was essentially a fluke; during a visit to Brussels we asked some Belgians if Brugge and Ghent were with a good day trip. Belgian rail had a special on tickets (a really good special) and we were trying to decide where to go.  We thought Ghent and Brugge might be a nice day trip and a second to Antwerp.  We were resoundingly told at least a day for Brugge and Ghent each; thus the dice had been cast and alas Antwerp lost. Several years later when my girlfriend said let's go and visit Brugge for a few days before meeting up with our friend for a tour of France; I was all in.  

I found Brugge (UNESCO World Heritage Site part) to be remarkably easy to stroll around and marvel at its beauty. Actually it makes you feel like you are walking and living (we stayed in Old Brugge on my second visit) in a fairy tale town that’s straight out of a story book; albeit one set in medieval times.  It is a treasure trove of renaissance and gothic architecture. The first known recorded mentions of Brugge or it's many iterations of spelling over the years is in AD 840–875.  Brugge in medieval times was well known as a commercial metropolis in the heart of Europe.  Detailed information on it's history can be found on the UNESCO site.  https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/996/

My visits were in early July and mid May; ironically except for a few main tourist attractions in July, neither time was it overrun with tourists (my visits were on weekdays so that may have been a factor). During my two visits, I have walked ~90% of old Brugge and on the second drove some of the newer sections, looking to replace a lost power cord for my Surface Pro that had slipped unknowingly under the car seat (I now have both an European and American version which has come in very handy; life works in mysterious ways).  

Blind Donkey Alley

Brugge is photographer's delight with so many locales that even in not so good light can look like an artist renderings. If it's not on your bucket list then it should be. Enjoy!

These first couple of pictures combined have a story.  I have always found the stories behind a place or site name to be fascinating.  Fictional versus reality, they often are both quite interesting and often hilarious. The "Blinde Ezelstraat” (Blind Donkey Alley) in Brugge, like many places in Europe has two stories how this alley got its name. The Bard's tale (I live in a place where Bard's tales are a tradition and are to be enjoyed over a beer or two) is that after the folks from Ghent captured the city in 1382, they started sacking it.  At the top of the Belfry of Brugge was a golden dragon which they took as their prize.  They loaded the dragon on a cart. When they came to the city's gate, the donkey that was pulling the cart refused to pass through.  The story goes that the donkey was born and raised in Brugge and knowing they wanted to take the dragon out of the city, the donkey refused to move any further. So either the robbers blindfolded the donkey or stabbed it in the eyes so it couldn’t see any more. The poor animal didn’t know what was happening and the robbers still got away with their prize.  In honor for the donkey's effort in trying to keep the dragon in the city, the street where it came to a stop is named “Blind Donkey Alley”.  The dragon resides atop the Belfry of Ghent to this day or some version of it.  All bard's tale have a hint of truth to them.

Alas, based on historical documents, there was an inn named “Den Blinden Ezele” (The Blind Donkey) on that alley in 1490. The term ‘Blind donkey’ referred to the brewers' habit of blindfolding donkeys that worked the breweries treadmill, preventing them from becoming dizzy.  I prefer the first version myself.

A poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, titled "The Belfry of Bruges," refers to the building's checkered history: "In the market-place of Bruges stands the belfry old and brown; Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilded, still it watches o'er the town".

Belfry of Bruges
(Without its dragon)

The Basilica of the Holy Blood houses a relic of the Holy Blood allegedly collected by Joseph of Arimathea and brought from the Holy Land by Thierry of Alsace, Count of Flanders. Built between 1134 and 1157 as the chapel for the Count of Flanders, it was promoted to a minor basilica in 1923.

Basilicas of the Holy Blood
Burg Square 

The beautiful Gothic Brugge City Hall was built in 1376, making it is one of the oldest in the Low Countries. It was from this building that the city was governed for more than 600 years.  The smaller Renaissance period; The Palace of the Liberty of Brugge was the place from which the surrounding countryside (Brugse Vrije) was governed from the late Middle Ages until 1795. This palace later served as the Old Court House for nearly 200 years.

Brugse Vrije (The Palace of the Liberty of Bruges 1537) and Stadhuis (City Hall 1376)

On my second visit, we ate next to this restaurant and the fish market. Excellent incorporation of art into the restaurant signage.  Due to anaphylactic seafood allergies we didn't eat there but I must say I enjoyed their visual advertising.

Restaurant De Visscherie

Restaurant De Visscherie

Restaurant De Visscherie
(My first view of their visual advertising)

The Begijnhof (Beguinage) with its white-coloured house fronts and tranquil convent garden was founded in 1245. This area was once the home of the beguines, emancipated lay-women who nevertheless led a pious and celibate life. Today the beguinage is inhabited by nuns of the Order of St. Benedict and several Brugge women who have decided to remain unmarried.  https://visit-bruges.be/see/places-interest/beguinage-begijnhof.

Begijnhofkerk Sint-Elisabeth  1245 (St. Elizabeth Church)

Entrance to Begijnhof (Beguinage)

Another beautiful Bard's Tale from Brugge is about Minnewater Park. Minna was in love with Stromberg, a warrior of a neighbouring tribe and her father forbid this liaison. He arranged for her to marry a man of his choice. Minna ran away and when Stromberg finally found her, she died in his arms of exhaustion. The lake was named after Minna and the bridge by the lake was named the bridge of love, in her honour.  This area is worth a walk but for photographer's it is a must.

Sashuis (historic locksmith house situated upon the canal entrance to Minnewater in Brugge)
Originally built around 1519 and reconstructed in 1895-96

de la Faille Castle (1893) Minnewater Park

This gate is located on the old road to Ghent. The current version was built in the beginning of the 15th century on the same location of a previous gate that was erected at the end of the 13th century. (https://visit-bruges.be/see/places-interest/bruges-city-ramparts-and-town-gates.

 Gentpoort (Ghent Gate from early 1400's)
One of the four medieval town gates

Kruispoort  (Cross Gate  built 1401) hiding behind the trees.
Best-preserved of Brugge's remaining gates

The following are some buildings in the UNESCO portion of Brugge.

The Chocolate Crown 
 Store with Homemade Belgian Chocolates

Buildings backing on to the Groenerei Canal
Across the canal from the Frank Van Acker Statue

Horse drawn carriage along Breidelstraat

Horse drawn carriage along Breidelstraat

Major Seminary in Brugge (Grootseminarie)
Formerly used as the seminary for the diocesan priesthood;  located on the Potterierei in Brugge.
 Currently houses a branch of the United Nations University which is associated with the College of Europe.

The Poortersloge (The Burghers' Lodge) was built at the end of the 14th and beginning of the 15th century in the commercial heart of Brugge (in the Jan van Eyck square). Basically the ancient commercial section of Brugge where trade occurred with ships loading and unloading. This area was essentially the customs area where goods had to cleared and taxes were levied.

Poortersloge  (The Burghers' Lodge)
Jan van Eyck Square

Schietbaan Lookout Tower

Sint-Janshospitaal (St. John's Hospital)  Medieval hospital in Brugge, founded mid-12th century and was in use to mid 1978
Currently a museum of medical artefacts and 6 paintings by Hans Memling (1430–1493). 

View of the Steeple of the Church of Our Lady (Built between 13-15th century) and St. John's Hospital. 

Sint-Janshuismolen (St. John's House Mill) 1770
The only 1 of the 4 mills in Brugge that is still operational grinding flour and open to visitors from June through September

 View of Sint-Walburgakerk (St. Walburga Church) built 1619-1641

While out walking in Brugge we came upon across this unique building. Turns out this beautiful building is the guild house of Saint Sebastian’s longbow Archers (The Main Royal Guild of St Sebastian of Brugge), one of the city’s oldest militias that has been in existence for over 600 years.  The members of this longbow guild are exclusively male, with two notable exceptions: Queen Mathilde of Belgium and the Queen of England.  It was founded in Brugge around 1375, housed since 1573 in the building pictured below (called the Lombaertsheester or  Lombaert shrub in English). More information on the guild's history (an interesting read) can be found at this website:  https://www.sebastiaansgilde.be/.  

St Sebastiaan (Main Royal Guild of Saint-Sebastian)
Guild house of archers

St. Sebastiaan ( Main Royal Guild of Saint-Sebastian) 

The following websites provide additional information on Brugge, Belgium:

http://www.xplorengo.com/eng/europe/Belgium/westflanders/bruges.htm

https://www.visitbruges.be/

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/996/

https://www.amazingbelgium.be/

A Medieval Mountain Top Town - Welcome to Erice!

Road to Erice
© Heather Von Bargen (with permission)

Perched precariously atop Monte San Giuliano (also called Monte Erice), Erice is superficially a wonderfully preserved walled Mediaeval town, towering over west coast of Sicily, just northeast of Trapani at 751 m (2,464 feet).  In reality, it's much older and much more. It was ancient Eryx, a prosperous Elymian and Carthaginian city. Erice has a mythological background – Eryx, the son of Aphrodite and Poseidon was the founder of the town. Like so many Sicilian towns, it passed from one invader to another with the Phoenicians, Carthaginians and Romans, all in turn, conquered the town.  Like all invaders they left architectural and cultural footprints in their wake. The name changed from Eryx, to Erice to Gebel Hamed and Monte San Giuliano but its essential character remained.  For centuries, Erice was one of Sicily’s most important cities until being destroyed during the Punic Wars (264-146 BC). 

It's about a 30 minute drive up to Erice from Trapani. That's the easy part. The road we took, the direct and shortest route (at least according to Matilda our very untrustworthy GPS) is essentially an edge-of-your-seat ascent with hairpin turns and blind corners. Add in the fact that descending vehicles barreled around said hairpin turns like they are participating in the Italian Grand Prix, coupled with impatient Sicilian drivers who will likely attempt to speed by to get around you on blind stretches or maybe even worse tailgate for the full journey makes for a nerve-wracking 20-25 minutes. Turn off the GPS or other direction aids least you enjoy listening to the constant barking of “turn left, turn right” until you reach your destination. Oh and you will have to make the descent at some point.  A big thank you to our intrepid driver Kathy (who knew she could channel Nino Vaccarella). We were lucky and easily found parking in a large parking area next to Porta Trapani.  Having said that Erice can also be reached by a funicular (cable car) from Trapani or you can take the second of the two roads that wind up the side of the mountain.

The Cathedral of the Assumption
 (Erice Cathedral; 14th Century)

Modern Erice is the pedestrianised quintessential tourist village that according to legend, a giant statue of Aphrodite crowned the mountain, visible to passing sailors as a welcome beacon. Considering that Erice can often have its head in the clouds, I suspect Aprophidite was only seen by those ancient seafarers on a clear day when the views of sea-valley-mountain were (and are) no doubt sensational. Erice can be mercurial with frequent unpredictable changes in weather that take you from brilliant sunshine to thick fog in the space of minutes.  The skies were mostly grey in Erice for most of our visit and we lucked out as the rain held off because I am certain that those ancient polished cobblestones would have turned as slippery as an ice rink in a flash.

Erice is a pretty town, in a sombre, grey kind of way and looks like it was carved from the mountain. The ancient gates and fortifications made of grey stone, dating back to circa 6 century BC are said to have been built by the Phoenicians. The narrow, winding cobblestone streets and alleys cut between stone houses, churches, and courtyard walls. The streets are paved with stones polished smooth with the passage of time. The steep alleyways are broken by shallow stone steps cut into them. Wear good footwear, your feet will thank you after a day spent on these hard stones. These characteristics of Erice coupled with the fact that cars are restricted throughout makes it feel like Erice has been frozen in time.   

We were day-trippers from Palermo visiting both Trapani and Erice so our time in Erice was limited. The essentials are the two castles that remain in the city: Pepoli Castle, which dates from Saracen times, and the Venus Castle, dating from the Norman period and built on top of the ancient Temple of Venus.  The principal church is the Chiesa Matrice (aka The Cathedral of the Assumption or Erice Cathedral) dating to 1314, with a portico from 1426 and a detached tower from 1312 (originally an Aragon watch tower). There are so many churches in Erice that they are literally around every corner. 

View of Mount Cofuno from Erice

Bell Tower and the Cathedral of the Assumption (Erice Cathedral; 14th Century)

Bell Tower
The Torre di Federico was built around 1315, as an Aragon watchtower.

Cobblestones Everywhere!

The reason for sensible footwear..

The Climb

More stairs

Chiesa Sant' Alberto Dei Bianchi
One of the many churches in Erice

Chiesa di San Giuliano, Built in 1070 by Normans
Baroque Bell Tower added in 1770

Piazza della Loggia

Castello di Venere or the Castle of Venus is built on the ruins of a temple, initially dedicated to the Greek Goddess Mother of natural fertility, Demeter, later identified as Venus by the Romans. The structure of the castle dates back to the 12th century and was built by the Normans. 

Castello di Venere (Venus Castle)

These medieval towers (Torrie del Balio or Balio Towers) were the outposts of the military fortress. They were connected by a drawbridge to Castello di Venere or the Castle of Venus, which were later replaced by the steps that still exist today. 

Torri del Balio (Balio Towers) Circa 1100

Torri del Balio (Balio Towers) Circa 1100

The rain held off until it was time to leave

A special thank you to Heather Von Bargen for the use of her image from her site.

https://www.curatedimages.com/wordpress/erica-in-italia-drives-in-sicilia/

The following websites provide additional information on Erice, Sicily:

http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/sicily/erice.html

https://life-globe.com/en/erice-sicily/