Quasimodo, the Stinker and the Blinker.

On our visit to Brugge (Bruges), we booked with a small company offering two tour itineraries. With the name Quasimodo Tours and choosing a tour that “travels between twin canals locally known as the Stinker and the Blinkerˮ how could we go wrong. We didn't! I would highly recommend this company to anyone looking for the type of tours they offer. The tour we did was the Best of Belgium and was a great way to explore some of the more out of the way places. Our guide Philippe was incredibly knowledgeable, entertaining and presented numerous humorous insights making for a thoroughly engaging experience (https://www.quasimodo.be/).

Castle Tillegem

The other tour offered is to Flanders Fields, a few of the stops were planned as stops while en-route to Brugge; so we did not book that tour. To quote Robbie Burns; “The best-laid schemes o' mice an' menˮ or women, in this case, did not take into account the mass confusion known as immigration Control at Charles de Gaulle Airport.  Two and a half hours to clear immigration control after an early morning arrival, followed by the car rental agency spending over an hour trying to find us a smaller rental vehicle throws off the schedule. I do not think I have ever been more thankful in my life for a colossal waste of my time. We would have been packed in like sardines as the “large SUVˮ was about the size of a Jeep Wrangler for three ladies, luggage and camera gear on a 3-week tour of Belgium and France. Our first stop en-route to Brugge was Beaumont Hamel. Of course, we had not taken into account the emotional impact of this stop, so we stayed longer than planned.  The result was more schedule slippage and no visit to Flanders Fields.  All the more reason for another visit in the future.

Loppem Chateau

Tillegem Castle (Kasteel van Tillegem), the first stop on the tour was a square moated castle originally dating back to the 12th or 13th century. Over the following centuries, the castle was owned by various families from Bruges, who rebuilt it several times. In 1879 Tillegem Castle was acquired by Baron Eugène Charles de Peñaranda de Franchimont, who had the castle rebuilt to its present appearance in Flemish Gothic Revival style per the architect Jean-Baptiste de Béthune.  It is presently owned by the Province of West Flanders where several of its offices are presently housed. While the castle is not open to the public, the surrounding park is (https://www.castles.nl/tillegem-castle).  

The second stop was Loppem Chateau (Kasteel van Loppem) located just east of the town of Loppem.  It is a "new" castle built between 1858 and 1862 by Baron Charles van Caloen replacing an earlier 18th-century mansion. Architects Edward Welby Pugin and Jean-Baptiste de Béthune designed it with the latter giving it, its Flemish Gothic Revival appearance. The castle is open to viewing and houses a lovely art collection which will be a topic of a separate post (https://www.castles.nl/loppem-castle). 

 Tithe Barn of Ter Doest Abbey
ca. 1375

The lunch stop was the restaurant Ter Doest, located on the grounds of the former Cistercian Abbey Ter Doest in Lissewege, Belgium. The sole remaining building dating from ca. 1375 is one of the last surviving examples of a medieval barn whose construction technique was specifically adapted to the maritime climate of north-western Europe. Numerous sculptures around the barn were part of the Statues in the White Village annual open-air art exhibition.  

After lunch we headed off to the picturesque village of Damme, passing the Schellemolen Windmill along the way on the Damse Vaart (Damme Canal).  Seems Damme is a book lovers' paradise.  Every second Sunday of the month, Damme is transformed into a book centre, as booksellers from near and far come together to display their wares! I know ladies I am in a bit of trouble for not knowing that tidbit of information while on our trip. Damme is an easy day trip from Brugge (7 km) by car, canal barge, bike, or a walk along the canal.  

“The blinkerˮ or the pure one as it is known is the leopoldcanal, an un-navigable waterway dug in 1845 for drainage of the surrounding polders.  “The Stinkerˮ is the locale name for the Schipdonkcanal which was dug in 1852 and is partially navigable.  Its names came from the stink and pollution that was associated with “retting of flaxˮ from industrial activity along the River Lys.  “Retting of flaxˮ is not done today so both the water quality and related odours no longer exist but the locale name will live on in infamy.  

Castle Tillegem

Castle Tillegem

Castle Tillegem

Castle Tillegem Moat Warning
There is one in every crowd!

Statues in the White Village (Lissewege at Ter Doest Abbey

Happy People by Luc De Prest
https://www.metalartwork.be/

Irénée Duriez
https://www.ireneeduriez.be/nl

Irénée Duriez
https://www.ireneeduriez.be/nl

Irénée Duriez
https://www.ireneeduriez.be/nl

Ceramic Bull Sculpture by Dirk Santens
https://santensgobeyn.wixsite.com/santens

Around Damme

 Schellemolen 1867
A mill has been on this spot since 1479.
Two millstones (grain and oil)

Stadhuis (Damme Town Hall)
 Brabantine Gothic built in 1464

Huyse de Grote Sterre (Late Gothic)
Damme Tourist Information, Post Office and small museum
Sections date back to 1200's
Joined as 1 building in 15th or 16th-century 

Tijl Uilenspiegel holds up a mirror to us in Jef Claerhout's sculpture group  1979
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Till_Eulenspiegel

 Our Lady of the Assumption Church, Damme, Belgium

View from graveyard of Our Lady of the Assumption Church (13th-century)

Tower of Our Lady of the Assumption Church (13th-century)

The Triumph of the Eucharist over Philosophy and Science 
 in Our Lady of the Assumption Church, Damme, Belgium
 Original was done by Peter Paul Rubens (baroque style) ca 1626-1625
(not sure if this is an original, done by his workshop, or a copy but it is based on a Rubens painting) 

Our Lady of the Assumption Church

Our Lady of the Assumption Church

Our Lady of the Assumption Church
Organs 1639 with interior contents 1844

Our Lady of the Assumption Church
Memorial Stone

The following websites and links in the blog provide additional information:

http://www.damme-online.com/gb.htm

https://www.thecrazytourist.com/15-best-things-to-do-in-damme-belgium/

It's How The Pieces and Colours Fit Together

St. Michael's and St. Gudula
Cathedral

My husband and I walked around Brussels without a destination or plan during our visit in 2011. We came upon St. Michael and St. Gudula Cathedral and on whim, decided to go inside. I can honestly say this was one of our better decisions. The stained glass windows are some of the most beautiful I have had the pleasure of viewing. The rest of the Cathedral is also exquisite but I admit to focusing on the windows.

  

The church's construction began in the 11th century and was largely complete by the 16th, though its interior has undergone frequent modifications over time. The choir was constructed between 1226 and 1276 with the façade completed in the mid-fifteenth century. The two front towers were completed in the early 16th century under Charles V. The Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula is the national church of Belgium and was granted cathedral status in 1962. It is the finest surviving example of Brabantine Gothic architecture. The cathedral is built of stone from the Gobertange quarry. 

The last Judgment (1528)

Stained glass was primarily a religious art form and with the spread of christianity (and other religions) resulted in the growth and proliferation of this art form. Perhaps the most outstanding feature of the interior of St. Michael and St. Gudula Cathedral are the stained glass windows, created by a variety of stained glass masters from the 16 to 19 centuries. 

The oldest window in the cathedral depicting is the Last Judgement, that was installed in 1528. The artist responsible for this beautiful work is actually unknow, though some people think it was the work of Frans Floris but others are not so sure. This beautiful Renaissance stained-glass window depicts the prince-bishop of Liège and was donated in 1528 by him (Erard de la Marck (1472-1538)) as a tribute to the emperor Charles V.

Jan Haeck from Antwerp is credited with producing both of the cathedral’s transept windows in 1537 after drawings by Bernard van Orley.  Some of the other 16th century windows in the church were produced by Nicolas Rombouts, a master glass-painter to the Court of Margaret of Austria. Jean De Labaer of Antwerp executed 4 windows from designs by himself and those of Theodor van Thulden in the 1650s. Many of the remaining windows were produced by JB Capronnier between 1848 and 1880. Such a diverse group of artisans from several centuries has resulted in a variety of styles which rather than distracting lends to the charm of St. Michael and St. Gudula Cathedral. 

The photographs of the stained glass are processed to highlight the stained glass rather than the architecture. I believe that the beauty of stained glass is how the pieces and colours fit together to create a visual framework with light adding the mood and directing the piece's story.

Jean Haeck Stained Glass 

The stained glass windows were made by Jan Haeck are based on drawings by Bernard van Orley (ca 1488-1541). Haeck and van Orley were also responsible for the windows adorning the northern and southern transepts (ca 1537-1548). 

1537

1538

1540

1542

1546

1547

Jan De LaBaer Stained Glass

The stained glass windows created by Jan de LaBaer (ca 1603-1668) were executed per his design  (1) or from designs (3) of Theodoor van Thulden (1606-1690). The stained glass windows by de LaBaer consisted of four windows in the Lady Chapel (constructed 1645-1659) of St. Michael and St. Gudula Cathedral, executed between 1654-1663.

 Jan de Labaer per own design 1654

1663

1658

Jean-Baptiste Capronnier Stained Glass 

Jean-Baptiste Capronnier (1814–1891) was a Belgian stained-glass painter born in Brussels. Many credit him with the modern revival of glass-painting. An interesting footnote is that he was also an entomologist specialising in Lepidoptera and a member of the Royal Belgian Entomological Society.

1870

Stain Glass from the Chapel of St Mary Magdalene

A baroque chapel dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen (or Maes chapel, after the family who funded it in 1675) and was once used as the burial crypt for the Maes family). It is baroque-style and hexagonal in shape. It is surmounted by a small cupola with stained glass by JB Capronnier.

Unknown

The attribute of the following stained glass pieces is unknown or rather I was unable to find information regarding the artist(s) responsible for their execution. The differing styles suggest 3 different artists were responsible for them. 

1843 (Capronnier ?)

The following websites provide additional information on stained glass and the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula

https://stainedglass.org/resources/history-of-stained-glass/

http://www.cathedralestmichel.be/

https://cathedralisbruxellensis.be/en/history/

Venice of the North, Bruges

Provincial Hof
(Original Provincial Seat of West Flander Government) 

Described as "Venice of the North" Brugge (dutch spelling and has numerous alternate spellings depending upon language, origin and period i.e. Bruges, Brugge, Brugges), the capital of West Flanders (Flemish Region) in Northwest Belgium is easily one of Europe's most beautiful cities. Let me be clear Brugge is not a Venice replica, both are unique and worthy of your time and a visit. My first visit to Brugge was essentially a fluke; during a visit to Brussels we asked some Belgians if Brugge and Ghent were with a good day trip. Belgian rail had a special on tickets (a really good special) and we were trying to decide where to go.  We thought Ghent and Brugge might be a nice day trip and a second to Antwerp.  We were resoundingly told at least a day for Brugge and Ghent each; thus the dice had been cast and alas Antwerp lost. Several years later when my girlfriend said let's go and visit Brugge for a few days before meeting up with our friend for a tour of France; I was all in.  

I found Brugge (UNESCO World Heritage Site part) to be remarkably easy to stroll around and marvel at its beauty. Actually it makes you feel like you are walking and living (we stayed in Old Brugge on my second visit) in a fairy tale town that’s straight out of a story book; albeit one set in medieval times.  It is a treasure trove of renaissance and gothic architecture. The first known recorded mentions of Brugge or it's many iterations of spelling over the years is in AD 840–875.  Brugge in medieval times was well known as a commercial metropolis in the heart of Europe.  Detailed information on it's history can be found on the UNESCO site.  https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/996/

My visits were in early July and mid May; ironically except for a few main tourist attractions in July, neither time was it overrun with tourists (my visits were on weekdays so that may have been a factor). During my two visits, I have walked ~90% of old Brugge and on the second drove some of the newer sections, looking to replace a lost power cord for my Surface Pro that had slipped unknowingly under the car seat (I now have both an European and American version which has come in very handy; life works in mysterious ways).  

Blind Donkey Alley

Brugge is photographer's delight with so many locales that even in not so good light can look like an artist renderings. If it's not on your bucket list then it should be. Enjoy!

These first couple of pictures combined have a story.  I have always found the stories behind a place or site name to be fascinating.  Fictional versus reality, they often are both quite interesting and often hilarious. The "Blinde Ezelstraat” (Blind Donkey Alley) in Brugge, like many places in Europe has two stories how this alley got its name. The Bard's tale (I live in a place where Bard's tales are a tradition and are to be enjoyed over a beer or two) is that after the folks from Ghent captured the city in 1382, they started sacking it.  At the top of the Belfry of Brugge was a golden dragon which they took as their prize.  They loaded the dragon on a cart. When they came to the city's gate, the donkey that was pulling the cart refused to pass through.  The story goes that the donkey was born and raised in Brugge and knowing they wanted to take the dragon out of the city, the donkey refused to move any further. So either the robbers blindfolded the donkey or stabbed it in the eyes so it couldn’t see any more. The poor animal didn’t know what was happening and the robbers still got away with their prize.  In honor for the donkey's effort in trying to keep the dragon in the city, the street where it came to a stop is named “Blind Donkey Alley”.  The dragon resides atop the Belfry of Ghent to this day or some version of it.  All bard's tale have a hint of truth to them.

Alas, based on historical documents, there was an inn named “Den Blinden Ezele” (The Blind Donkey) on that alley in 1490. The term ‘Blind donkey’ referred to the brewers' habit of blindfolding donkeys that worked the breweries treadmill, preventing them from becoming dizzy.  I prefer the first version myself.

A poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, titled "The Belfry of Bruges," refers to the building's checkered history: "In the market-place of Bruges stands the belfry old and brown; Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilded, still it watches o'er the town".

Belfry of Bruges
(Without its dragon)

The Basilica of the Holy Blood houses a relic of the Holy Blood allegedly collected by Joseph of Arimathea and brought from the Holy Land by Thierry of Alsace, Count of Flanders. Built between 1134 and 1157 as the chapel for the Count of Flanders, it was promoted to a minor basilica in 1923.

Basilicas of the Holy Blood
Burg Square 

The beautiful Gothic Brugge City Hall was built in 1376, making it is one of the oldest in the Low Countries. It was from this building that the city was governed for more than 600 years.  The smaller Renaissance period; The Palace of the Liberty of Brugge was the place from which the surrounding countryside (Brugse Vrije) was governed from the late Middle Ages until 1795. This palace later served as the Old Court House for nearly 200 years.

Brugse Vrije (The Palace of the Liberty of Bruges 1537) and Stadhuis (City Hall 1376)

On my second visit, we ate next to this restaurant and the fish market. Excellent incorporation of art into the restaurant signage.  Due to anaphylactic seafood allergies we didn't eat there but I must say I enjoyed their visual advertising.

Restaurant De Visscherie

Restaurant De Visscherie

Restaurant De Visscherie
(My first view of their visual advertising)

The Begijnhof (Beguinage) with its white-coloured house fronts and tranquil convent garden was founded in 1245. This area was once the home of the beguines, emancipated lay-women who nevertheless led a pious and celibate life. Today the beguinage is inhabited by nuns of the Order of St. Benedict and several Brugge women who have decided to remain unmarried.  https://visit-bruges.be/see/places-interest/beguinage-begijnhof.

Begijnhofkerk Sint-Elisabeth  1245 (St. Elizabeth Church)

Entrance to Begijnhof (Beguinage)

Another beautiful Bard's Tale from Brugge is about Minnewater Park. Minna was in love with Stromberg, a warrior of a neighbouring tribe and her father forbid this liaison. He arranged for her to marry a man of his choice. Minna ran away and when Stromberg finally found her, she died in his arms of exhaustion. The lake was named after Minna and the bridge by the lake was named the bridge of love, in her honour.  This area is worth a walk but for photographer's it is a must.

Sashuis (historic locksmith house situated upon the canal entrance to Minnewater in Brugge)
Originally built around 1519 and reconstructed in 1895-96

de la Faille Castle (1893) Minnewater Park

This gate is located on the old road to Ghent. The current version was built in the beginning of the 15th century on the same location of a previous gate that was erected at the end of the 13th century. (https://visit-bruges.be/see/places-interest/bruges-city-ramparts-and-town-gates.

 Gentpoort (Ghent Gate from early 1400's)
One of the four medieval town gates

Kruispoort  (Cross Gate  built 1401) hiding behind the trees.
Best-preserved of Brugge's remaining gates

The following are some buildings in the UNESCO portion of Brugge.

The Chocolate Crown 
 Store with Homemade Belgian Chocolates

Buildings backing on to the Groenerei Canal
Across the canal from the Frank Van Acker Statue

Horse drawn carriage along Breidelstraat

Horse drawn carriage along Breidelstraat

Major Seminary in Brugge (Grootseminarie)
Formerly used as the seminary for the diocesan priesthood;  located on the Potterierei in Brugge.
 Currently houses a branch of the United Nations University which is associated with the College of Europe.

The Poortersloge (The Burghers' Lodge) was built at the end of the 14th and beginning of the 15th century in the commercial heart of Brugge (in the Jan van Eyck square). Basically the ancient commercial section of Brugge where trade occurred with ships loading and unloading. This area was essentially the customs area where goods had to cleared and taxes were levied.

Poortersloge  (The Burghers' Lodge)
Jan van Eyck Square

Schietbaan Lookout Tower

Sint-Janshospitaal (St. John's Hospital)  Medieval hospital in Brugge, founded mid-12th century and was in use to mid 1978
Currently a museum of medical artefacts and 6 paintings by Hans Memling (1430–1493). 

View of the Steeple of the Church of Our Lady (Built between 13-15th century) and St. John's Hospital. 

Sint-Janshuismolen (St. John's House Mill) 1770
The only 1 of the 4 mills in Brugge that is still operational grinding flour and open to visitors from June through September

 View of Sint-Walburgakerk (St. Walburga Church) built 1619-1641

While out walking in Brugge we came upon across this unique building. Turns out this beautiful building is the guild house of Saint Sebastian’s longbow Archers (The Main Royal Guild of St Sebastian of Brugge), one of the city’s oldest militias that has been in existence for over 600 years.  The members of this longbow guild are exclusively male, with two notable exceptions: Queen Mathilde of Belgium and the Queen of England.  It was founded in Brugge around 1375, housed since 1573 in the building pictured below (called the Lombaertsheester or  Lombaert shrub in English). More information on the guild's history (an interesting read) can be found at this website:  https://www.sebastiaansgilde.be/.  

St Sebastiaan (Main Royal Guild of Saint-Sebastian)
Guild house of archers

St. Sebastiaan ( Main Royal Guild of Saint-Sebastian) 

The following websites provide additional information on Brugge, Belgium:

http://www.xplorengo.com/eng/europe/Belgium/westflanders/bruges.htm

https://www.visitbruges.be/

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/996/

https://www.amazingbelgium.be/