Sam, I am: December 2014

Agrigento, Sicily

The ancient city of Akragas was located along the top of a ridge between the confluence of the Hypsas and Akragas rivers in Sicily and is now known as Agrigento. Akragas while claiming the legendary Daedalus (builder of the Labyrinth for King Minos of Crete) as it's founder, is considered to have been established by a group of Rhodian and Cretan colonists from the city of Gela circa 582 B.C. However, excavations indicate that a 7th century BC Greek settlement has existed at this location. Typical of classic Greek settlements, Akragas was built on the flanks of a hill by the coast. This allowed Akragas to expand from the original acropolis and prosper within a very short time after colonization. Defensive walls were built to reinforce the natural protection of the difficult topography circa 570-555 BC. Under Phalaris and Theron, the city expanded its territory and grew rapidly to a population of between 100,000 to 200,000 inhabitants, becoming one of the richest and most famous of the Greek colonies of Magna Graecia (an area in southern Italy in the vicinity of the Gulf of Taranto). After the period of tyranny under Phalaris and Theron, Akragas flourished as a democracy known for its high-quality wine, olives and horses. The city was sacked and completely destroyed by the Carthaginians in 406 BC, never to regain its former glory. The city became a prize fought over by Romans and Carthaginians, falling to Roman conquest in 262 BC and becoming incorporated into the Roman Empire in 210 BC. The decline of the Western Roman Empire and the ascendancy of Christianity led to depopulation and impoverishment of the city. The older quarters were abandoned and the remaining population clustering on the hill. The settlement during it's decline was successively occupied by the Arabs in 829 and by the Normans in 1086. The current population of Agrigento is approximately 60,000, a shadow of it's former self.

Map of Valley of the Temples
http://www.thethinkingtraveller.com/ with parking lot information added

Ancient Akragas covered a large area, much of which still remains unexcavated but is exemplified by the Valley of the Temples. The Valley of the Temples covers most of the built-up part of the ancient city and its public monuments on the south side of the ancient city (and modern city of Agrigento). Seven Greek temples in the Doric style were constructed during the 6th and 5th centuries BC. The excavated and partially restored temples within this archaeological site constitute some of the largest and best-preserved ancient Greek buildings outside of Greece and is a listed World Heritage Site. The most impressive remains are those of the temples built during the reign of Thero and after. There are eight temples (and various other remains) built between about 510 BC and 430 BC include the Temple of Hera, the Temple of Concordia, the Temple of Heracles, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Temple of Castor and Pollux, the Temple of Hephaestos, the Temple of Demeter, and the Temple of Asclepius (the God of Medicine).

As per most sites of interest in Sicily, finding and following signage can be a challenge. Our trip to the Valley of the Temples took us through Agrigento, based on GPS and signage. At the time of our visit to the Valley of the Temples we were still GPS novices and were operating under the mistaken impression that the GPS would provide the quickest and most efficient routes (See recalculating is a four letter word Post). There is no need to drive through Agrigento to go to the Valley of the Temples, so save yourself the aggravation and use what we would call the bypass road. We parked in the lower entrance parking lot and took a taxi to the upper entrance near the The temple of Juno. It was definitely worth the money (5 euros per person) as we walked the route downhill back to the vehicle in 30°C temperatures (end of May). About the site, all I can say is wow and definitely worth the visit. Enjoy the photographs and if you visit Sicily, a stroll through ancient Greece in the Valley of the Temples should definitely be on your "must see" list. Enjoy.

Video from the Valley of the Temples May 2014

Valley of the Temples

Photographs from the Valley of the Temples May 2014

The temple of Juno (Hera Lacinia) was built in the Doric style (450-440 B.C.) and rests upon a base with four steps and has six columns at the front and back, and thirteen along the sides.

Temple of Hera

The Temple of Concordia was built in 440-430 BC on a solid platform to overcome the uneven terrain. This is one of the best preserved Doric temples in the world, due in part to alterations undertaken in the 4th Century (AD) when it became a Christian Basilica.

Temple of Concordia

This modern bronze (Fallen Icarus) by Polish artist Igot Mitoraj can be seen in the Valley of the Temples, near the Temple of Concordia. Just my luck, a couple of large tour groups arrived making it impossible to get a good shot with the temple in the background.

Fallen Icarus

This is the oldest temple in the Valley of Temples, dating to the end of the 6th century B.C. The temple was famous for its statue of Hercules, which the notorious art thief Caius Verres attempted to steal for his governor's palace around 73 BC. Plans of the raid became know, and local citizens overpowered the the Roman soldiers.

Temple of Heracles (Hercules)

The Temple of the Dioscuri was built at the end of the 5th century BC in homage to the twins Castor and Pollux. The only remains of the temple are four columns, which were rebuilt in the 19th Century.

Temple of Dioscuri (Castor and Pollux)

A view of the Mediterranean Sea through the fortifications for Akragas. This is probably the remains of an arcosolium type of burial chamber that was cut into the walls of the Greek fortifications.

View through the Fortifications

Christian burial ground used between the 3rd and 6th centuries.

Paleochristian Necropolis

Ironically I suspect she does not realize that her rest spot today was in actuality someone's final resting place. This would have been part of the Byzantine Tombs that were cut into the fortifications between the 3rd and 6th centuries AD.

Resting Spot

The following web sites are excellent resources for information on the Valley of then Temples as well as other Sicilian locations:

http://www.thethinkingtraveller.com/

http://www.parcodeitempli.net/

http://www.valleyofthetemples.com/

http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/831

http://www.bestofsicily.com/

Other pictures from our May 2014 Sicily trip may be seen at my Flickr Site: Sicily Album on my Flickr Site

Mount Etna

Several years ago, two of my friends and I started to discuss the possibility of taking a girls vacation; yes several bottles of wine were involved in that discussion. That was the start of what has become a much anticipated and enjoyed biennial vacation. Let me make this very clear, we are not ladies who would enjoy spending several days at a spa, gambling, shopping and/or lounging at the pool or beach. That might be fine for a day or two; we rather like to see and experience the culture and history of a destination. While, this is the common thread among all of us; how we achieve the seeing and experiencing differences significantly. I am the "princess" (no apologies from me and yes I do like my creature comforts), then there is the "minimalist" (she would camp and have us camping anywhere), and finally the "sense of reason" (she strikes or rather facilitates and leads us to a sense of balance between the two extremes). However, we all enjoy partaking of the food, drink, culture and history of the regions we visit.

Citizen of Noto

So, when the 2014 year trip destination was proposed; Sicily, My first thought was why Sicily? I knew little to nothing about Sicily, other than it was in Italy and the popular stereotypes associated with Sicily. OK, So again, why Sicily? It so happens that Sicily is an uniquely multicultural society, having been ruled by Asians, Africans and Europeans at some point in their history, resulting in a society that is in reality a multitude of shades of grey. Sicily has been a Greek colony, a Roman province, an Arab emirate and a Norman kingdom. It's history has been stamped by the influences of the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Swabians, Angevins, Aragonese, Spanish and Albanians resulting in an uniquely eclectic history and culture that is reflected in the Classical, the Romanesque, the Gothic, and Baroque influences evident through out the island.

A view from the Greek Theatre in Taormina
The Sky adds Drama and Interest

The beauty of Sicily with its unique blend of history and culture make it an ideal locale for travel photography. You have several beautiful and diverse archaeological sites and attractions without the larger crowds experienced at some more well known sites such as in Rome and Athens. Nevertheless the Sicilian sites are magnificent in their own way. Sicily is home to some of the most impressive Roman mosaics in the world at Piazza Armerina and these mosaics are a reason unto themselves to visit Sicily. With such an eclectic mix of cultures, the architecture of Sicily is a treat for anybody who appreciates architecture. Sicily architecture influences include Roman, Arabic, Spanish and Norman styles. Mount Etna (surprise, surprise another vacation destination with a volcano; one of us seems to have a volcano fetish!), is a beautiful backdrop for any travel photograph.

My top three reasons for visiting Sicily are the Roman mosaics which are the finest in the world, Valley of the Temples with some of the best preserved Greek temples outside of Greece and Erice, the medieval walled town. If you visit Sicily, you can easily develop your own top three reasons and mine may not even make your list. Add-in great weather, lovely beaches, seafood and why Sicily quickly becomes why not Sicily!